Capofaro. A whitewashed paradise on the island of Salina in the Aeolian islands off the northeast coast of Sicily. It’s one of those places you want to get away to. Fall now, the leaves of the Malvasia vines are turning. How many shades of Malvasia can one drink? Enough to keep you around for awhile, long enough for the capers to shrink under Sicilian sea salt fino amaro non ce’.