Pretty, frilly jewel like trebbiano grapes on cane mats left to shrivel in extremes of hot and cold. When pressed, their liquid is raisin like and ages in small oak barrels for 6-8 years. I’ve spoken about it before, but this is the season to get an eye and ear full. Unfortified, Vin Santo is other worldly. Deep, honey and caramel notes “like a kiss on the lips”. I first tasted Vin Santo here at Capezzana in 1992. Count Hugo Contini Bonacossi gave a few young friends and I a look at the cellar then invited us to lunch inside the old Medici villa at a long table surrounded by family portraits. 5 glasses sat above the plate and the last was for Vin Santo. Those first sips left an indelible impression, as did the Count with his humble generosity. Genuine sweetness, whether in the glass or from the heart, is worth going back for. If nothing else but to see.